Question

ocean waves can be classified by their generating force, location, and the way they break as they reach the shore. do some research on the following types of waves and then match each type with the best definition.
_____1. capillary waves a. a series of powerful, long - wavelength waves caused by a large - scale displacement of water, tsunamis
_____2. swells b. long period waves caused by the gravitational pull of the moon and sun; produce the periodic rise and fall of sea level along coastlines
_____3. tides c. long period, uniform waves that travel away from the area where they were generated by a storm system
_____4. seismic waves d. form when there is a sudden and steep change in the seafloors depth
_____5. plunging breakers e. extremely large, unexpected, and spontaneous ocean waves
_____6. spilling breakers f. occur where the beach has a very steep slope; they do not truly break but instead slide up and down the face of the beach
_____7. surging breakers g. tiny, short - wavelength waves caused by a light breeze
_____8. rogue waves h. form over a gently sloping seafloor, and the water at the top of the wave spills down the face of the wave.

Explanation:

• Capillary waves: These are tiny, short - wavelength waves. A light breeze can create them, which matches option g.
• Swells: They are long - period, uniform waves that travel away from the storm - generating area, corresponding to option c.
• Tides: Caused by the gravitational pull of the Moon and Sun, resulting in periodic sea - level changes (option b).
• Seismic waves (tsunamis): Caused by large - scale water displacement (option a).
• Plunging breakers: Form due to a sudden and steep seafloor depth change (option d).
• Spilling breakers: Form over a gently sloping seafloor with water spilling (option h).
• Surging breakers: Occur on a very steep beach slope without true breaking (option f).
• Rogue waves: Extremely large, unexpected, and spontaneous (option e).

Answer:

1. g
2. c
3. b
4. a
5. d
6. h
7. f
8. e