Question

question 26
1 pts
as a wave begins to feel bottom near a shoreline, its wave height:
decreases and its steepness decreases.
increases and its wavelength remains the same.
decreases and its wavelength increases.
increases and its wavelength decreases
increases and its frequency decreases.

Explanation:

When a wave approaches the shoreline and “feels” the bottom (due to decreasing water depth), the wave slows down. According to the wave - speed formula \(c = \frac{\lambda}{T}\) (where \(c\) is wave speed, \(\lambda\) is wavelength, and \(T\) is period). Since the period \(T\) (time between successive wave crests) is relatively constant (assuming no external forces changing the wave's periodicity), as the wave slows down (\(c\) decreases), the wavelength \(\lambda\) decreases. At the same time, the energy of the wave is compressed (because the wave is moving slower but the same amount of energy is being transported over a shorter horizontal distance in terms of wavelength), causing the wave height to increase.

Answer:

increases and its wavelength decreases