Question

which statement best summarizes why a wave breaks? (1 point) the distance between two waves becomes larger. the wave dips below another wave along the coast. the wavelength is bigger than the depth of the water. the wave gains speed from winds and ocean currents.

Explanation:

When a wave approaches the shore, as the water depth decreases, if the wavelength (distance between wave crests) becomes larger relative to the water depth, the wave becomes unstable and breaks. The other options do not accurately describe the main reason for wave breaking. For example, the distance between waves (related to wavelength but not the key in breaking as described in option 1), a wave dipping below another (option 2 - not a typical cause of breaking), and a wave gaining speed (option 4 - while wind and currents can affect waves, it's not the direct cause of breaking related to the wave - water depth interaction).

Answer:

The wavelength is bigger than the depth of the water.